The Alchemy of Kundan: Hand-Setting Eternal Splendor in Pure 24k Gold
Dolly Katharia
Creative Director & Founder
August 12, 20258 min read
Kundan jewelry sits at the absolute pinnacle of Indian royal ornamentation. Born in the imperial courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat centuries ago, this refined method of hand-setting precious gemstones in pure gold remains a marvel of artisanal patience.
Unlike western claw settings, Kundan employs an extraordinary adhesive method. Artisans utilize extremely refined gold foil (known as surkh or kundan foil) which is pressed around the stone's edges at room temperature using tiny steel probes. The gold is worked until its molecules bond directly, creating a watertight, everlasting frame.
"Kundan isn't simply an adornment; it's a silent dialogue between pure metal and ancient gemstone, eternalized by the steady rhythm of a craftsman's breath."
— Dolly Katharia



